Life in the big city, and everything in between.

Dovetail Soars

In Food on November 1, 2010 at 3:40 pm

Owner-chef John Fraser’s restaurant, Dovetail, is a warm, inviting space, tucked on a residential spot near the Museum of Natural History. Though Fraser’s restaurant is what I would call a “destination spot”, your experience dining at this establishment will justify the trip. Like many of the restaurants on the Upper West Side, the decor of Dovetail is quite generic. The main dining room was complete with brown carpet, unadorned brick walls, and dark earth tones. However, the food was anything but blasè.

We were started off with an amuse of shitake mushroom geleè topped with radish and garlic chip, as well as some warm, buttery white cheddar corn bread, in endless amounts if you want. After the amuses, our salad arrived. A salad of big green Brussels-sprout leaves, with salty serrano ham and slivers of sweet Bartlett pear and manchego cheese, together with a thin layer of cauliflower purée.

Then came the soft boiled egg with ramps, bacon, oyster mushrooms, and yams. This dish was soft and rich, gaining new layers of flavor and texture. Another interesting combination was the sauteed foie gras with fennel and huckleberries.  Wonderfully tender and savory, the foie gras and huckleberries complimented each other in a harmonious way.

After our ambitious appetizers, it was time for the entrees. The roasted sirloin with beef cheek lasagna was absolutely sumptuous. Pink- hearted cube of deliciously crusted steak with a lasagna filled with tender, savory beef cheek.  The shredded beef cheeks are layered between thin slices of the pastry- like lasagna and smothered in a red-wine reduction. The sirloin had an excellent deep char, creating a smokey flavor. A thick, King trumpet mushroom, halved, and grilled shared the plate with a seared onion adding to the perfectly meaty dish.

It helps to know the waitstaff. In our case, one dessert turned into three. The pain perdu, which was my absolute favorite, was a dense slab of brioche bread pudding with sliced poached apples and vanilla ice cream. It was moist and perfectly caramelized. The peanut butter smores was also a hit. The bottom layer was a crisp graham cracker crust layered with a peanut butter fudge-like texture and pillowy marshmallow goodness on top. Served with candied nuts and peanut butter ice cream, this dessert encompasses all of the sweet and salty flavors you need to give your taste buds a joyride.

 

Just when you think you couldn’t possibly fit another morsel in your mouth, you are presented with two bite size red velvet cupcakes with cream cheese frosting. This was the perfect ending to an impeccable meal.

Dovetail creates a simple, yet cozy atmosphere for a cold New York night. The delectable and attention-getting dishes will leave you feeling satisfied and planning your next trip back.

 

103 W 77th St
New York, NY 10079
Neighborhood: Upper West Side

(212) 362-3800

 

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